Refractive Index : 1.551-1.560

Specific Gravity : 2.67

Andesine is in the Plagioclase Feldspar mineral group, close to Labradorite. The AGTA, and other well known laboratories, allowed the name Andesine to be given to stones that have less than 50% of Calcium (Albite Na (AISi3O8) and Anorhite (AI2Si3O8)).  Copper gives the Red color to Andesine, and the clarity is exceptional. Moonstone and Sunstone are also in the feldspar group, but only fine Red Feldspar can be called Andesine. Andesine is from Oregon USA, also known as "Oregon Sunstone", but to be truly classified Andesine it must have the correct composition as well as it must be Red in color. Anything else would be classified Labradorite, which is found in several colors. The largest known Red Sunstone is 300+ carats.
There is also a color changing variety of Labradorite that shifts from shades of green to shades of a reddish color, these gems also demand a premium due to their beauty and rarity.
There has been in recent years a lot of Andesine on the market, said to be from the Congo, China, and other mysteriously secret mine locations. Yet I find it strange that the owners of Oregon mines say that every time a large parcel of rough is sent to China for cutting, they only get back around 17% of their weight back as finished goods... also owners of mines in Mexico say the Chinese have been buying huge quantities of their low grade Labradorite, and strangely enough, within a few months they all observe a considerable amount of Congo, Tibet, Mongolia, and Chinese Andesine-Labradorite Sunstone hitting the market...  hmm, let's think about this, could there be a link? Andesine has been one of the hottest gems sold on various Gem TV Shows. These stones are being sold as natural 100% untreated Andesine-Labradorite, Labrasine, or Andorite. Some of these TV show hosts have even been telling a story that no one knows where the actual mine is. The truth is, the Andesine these TV shows have been selling is now proven to be extremely heavily diffusion treated, not natural at all. Here is a good article on the subject that you may enjoy. In addition to this article, I received this email from an Oregon miner, Chris Rose, that I would like to share with you... "Just to let you guys know, practically all of the andesine on the market and that being sold on JTV, QVC and all the other gem and jewelery channels is artificially dyed through a non disclosed process where manufacturers are introducing copper through diffusion in a furnace and flux in Thailand and China. We have absolute proof of this and there has just been a class action consumer lawsuit filed against JTV. Several major laboratories have conducted the tests and are now able to detect this treatment as well as tell it apart from true Oregon sunstone through a rather simple optical test. I very seriously doubt you have oregon material. Test its optical sign, if its biaxial (-) you have the fake stuff. If it is biaxial (+), you may have Oregon material. Currently, the lawsuit is being expanded to include all dealers of this fake material fondly being dubbed scamdesine. More lawsuits are being planned by us Oregon sunstone miners who have been damaged by this scam which is likely the largest fraud perpetrated on and by the gem industry in decades. Even the AP news distributor has picked up the story and the FTC is investigating. I have personally offered a $20,000 reward to anyone that can document a red andesine mine anywhere in the world outside of Oregon. I have had no takers including Gemfrance. The little scam is rapidly falling apart. If you care and want more info on this, feel free to contact me."
After receiving this email, I sent all of my Andesine to the lab for testing, but regardless of the outcome, you can rest assured that we will only feature Top Quality Andesine from the Oregon mines that is not heated or enhanced in any way.  Personally, I love the top quality natural Oregon Sunstone Andesine, it is truly a beautiful gem, and at this time this real fine Red Andesine is priced between $200 to $2,500 per carat, depending on how red the color, as well as the other factors like the cut and carat size of course.

TREATMENTS - Andesine from the Oregon mines right here in the USA is a natural gem, not heated or enhanced in any way.  As you can see from the above information, almost all of the other Andesine on the market is artificially dyed red through diffusion treatment.
CARE - Andesine should never be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, since this cleaning method can cause irreparable damage to the stone.  We strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Andesine, if used in jewelry. Since Andesine is of the softer variety of gems, like emerald, we recommend it be handled as though it is was as soft as opal. Also, if mounted on a Ring, since rings are susceptible to knocks and abrasion, we recommend mounting in a bezel or protected with heavy prongs as much as possible. 

Refractive Index : 1.634-1.638 (+.012,-.006)

Specific Gravity : 3.18 (+/-.05)

Apatite ranges in color from colorless to pink, yellow, green, blue, and violet.  It has a vitreous luster and is sensitive to acids. Apatite is very heat sensitive, excessive heat could cause loss or change in color, also chemicals that could attack this gem are sulfuric and hydrochloric acids. Apatite is easily confused with Beryl, Topaz and Tourmaline.  Sources for this gemstone are Brazil, Burma, Sri Lanka, Czechoslovakia, India, Malagasy Republic, Mexico, and the U.S.

TREATMENTS - Typically Apatite is not treated.
CARE - Apatite should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Apatite jewelry.

THE BIRTHSTONE for MARCH

Refractive Index : 1.577-1.583 (+/-.017)

Specific Gravity : 2.72 (+.18,-.05)

Aquamarine ranges in color from light to deep greenish-Blue through blue-Green. The richer the color, the more costly the gem is per carat.  Aquamarine achieves its Blue to greenish Blue color from Iron in the ferrous state.  Its name is from two Latin words meaning "water" and "sea".  Aquamarine amulets were thought to render sailors fearless and protect them from adversities at sea, especially if the stone was engraved with a Poseidon on a chariot. The stone was symbol of happiness and eternal youth, and according to Christian symbolism, it signified moderation and control of the passions to it's owners.
Aquamarine is a member of the Beryl (BARE-ul) mineral family, along with Emerald, Golden Beryl, Goshenite, Bixbite and Morganite.  Brazil is the principal source for Aquamarine. More than 80% of the the Brazilian Aquamarine comes from an area around Teofilo Otoni in the western part of Minas Gerais.  Aquamarine is also found in China, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Madagascar, Malagasy Republic, Nigeria, Zambia, U.S. in Maine as well as Idaho and California, and the former Soviet Union in the Ural Mountains, as well as Transbaikalia and Siberia.  Aquamarine is generally not heat sensitive, but chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids.
Aquamarine gemstones with intense colors are becoming very scarce, and their price has increased substantially.
Top colors according to the GIA color grading system have 2-4 tones, with 1-4 saturation.

TREATMENTS - Typically Aquamarines are greenish when mined and cut, the sky blue shades are produced by heat treating the greenish-yellow, greenish, and even brownish beryl gems, so you should assume that all of the intense colors of Aquamarine may have been heat treated.  The heat treatment process is a permanent process that does not adversely affect the performance and durability of the gemstone, so there's no need to worry when you see this enhancement disclosed.
CARE - Aquamarine should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Aquamarine..

Refractive Index : 1.577-1.583 (+/-.017)

Specific Gravity : 2.72 (+.18,-.05)

The Beryl mineral family includes Emerald, Aquamarine, Red Beryl (Bixbite), Colorless Beryl (Goshenite), Golden Beryl (Heliodor), Green Beryl, and Morganite.  The photos above are in the same order. The Beryl mineral family is a popular one because of the beautiful varieties of colors and the durability of the stones.  Beryl is an excellent choice for jewelry. With the exception of Emerald and Red Beryl, all other Beryls are typically clean stones, virtually free of eye visible inclusions.  Beryl colors include Colorless, Blue, Green, Yellow, Pink, Peach and Red. Beryl is generally not heat sensitive, but chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids.

TREATMENTS - See the individual class of Beryl for the typical treatment process that may apply.
CARE - Beryl should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Beryl jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.577-1.583 (+/-.017)

Specific Gravity : 2.72 (+.18,-.05)

Bixbite is the Red Beryl, extremely rare, probably 100 times more rare than Alexandrite.  Typically a strong Ruby Red or slightly violetish Red color, with numerous inclusions and internal flaws.  It's pleochroism is comparable to Burma Ruby.  Red Beryl is generally not heat sensitive, but chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids. This gem is typically heavily included, opaque, and the faceted Gem is very very expensive.  You could expect to pay $20,000 to $25,000 for a one (1) carat Red Beryl.

TREATMENTS - Typically Red Beryl is not treated since it would adversely affect the value.
CARE - Red Beryl should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Red Beryl.

Refractive Index : 1.577-1.583 (+/-.017)

Specific Gravity : 2.72 (+.18,-.05)

Goshenite Beryl is the Colorless Beryl, named after a find in Goshen Massachusetts, which may have a very slight tint of Blue or Silver. This transparent, faceted Gem is an inexpensive choice for jewelry.  Colorless Beryl is generally not heat sensitive, but chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids. Goshenite is found in Brazil and the U.S.

TREATMENTS - Typically Colorless Beryl is not treated.
CARE - Colorless Beryl should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Colorless Beryl.

Refractive Index : 1.577-1.583 (+/-.017)

Specific Gravity : 2.72 (+.18,-.05)

Golden Beryl, or Heliodor, varies between greenish yellow to orangy or yellowish brown. This transparent, faceted Gem is an inexpensive choice for jewelry.  Golden Beryl is generally not generally heat sensitive, but the orange could fade or change to pink if subjected to 100⁰C or higher. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids. Golden Beryl is found in Brazil, Sri Lanka, and Nambia.

TREATMENTS - Typically Golden Beryl is not treated.
CARE - Golden Beryl should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Golden Beryl.

Refractive Index : 1.577-1.583 (+/-.017)

Specific Gravity : 2.72 (+.18,-.05)

Green Beryl is a green variety whose color is too light, desaturated, or yellowish to be called an Emerald.  Green Beryl is generally not generally heat sensitive, but the green could fade or change to a bluish color if subjected to 100⁰C or higher. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids. Green Beryl can be found in Brazil, Colombia, and Nambia.

TREATMENTS - Typically Green Beryl is not treated.
CARE - Heliodor should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Green Beryl.

Refractive Index : 1.746-1.755 (+.004,-.006)

Specific Gravity : 3.73 (+/-.02)

Chrysoberyl has a natural color that ranges from Pale Yellow to Pale Greenish Yellow or Green, or Pale Brownish Yellow.  It's color range is like the Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye but a bit more green or brown.  The pale yellow color closely resembles Light Yellow Sapphire, but it is not as brilliant.  Normally this gemstone is found in Mixed Oval cuts and  Round cuts to bring out the excellent luster of the stone, and sometimes it can even be found in Trilliant, Marquis, and Pear cuts.  Our main source is Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known for producing some of the finest Gemstones in the world.  Other sources for this gemstone are Madagascar and Brazil.  The value of Chrysoberyl is about the same as Tourmaline and Spinel.

TREATMENTS - Typically Chrysoberyl is not treated.
CARE - Chrysoberyl should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush are the best way to clean Chrysoberyl jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.746-1.755 (+.004,-.006)

Specific Gravity : 3.73 (+/-.02)

Many Gems have Cat's Eyes, but Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye is the best known. A Cat's Eye stone is a Cabochon which has fine tubes or needles which run across the stone (chatoyancy). When properly cut, the light reflects as a floating silky eye. The sharp eye in the Cabochon resembles the iris of a Cat's Eye, hence the term Cat's Eye.
Chrysoberyl Cat's Eyes are normally pale Yellow, honey Yellow and Brown/Yellow, sometimes with a touch of Green. The very best and hardest to locate is a honey Brown. The rarest Cat's Eye is one where a light shown through the side of the stone creates a shadow in the stone. Two shades of color separating the Cat's Eye are then evident. This is called a milk and honey effect due to the lighter and darker shades of color. The strength of the Eye, clarity, color and size of the Cabochon determine the price per carat.

TREATMENTS - Typically Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye is not treated since it would adversely affect the natural  chatoyancy.  Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye is often times found to be radioactive, so it must pass the RDX test and have -0- radiation to be imported into the US.
CARE - Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye (non-radioactive) is excellent in jewelry since it is quite hard, however, as with all Chrysoberyl, it should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush are the best way to clean Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye jewelry.

THE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER

Refractive Index : 1.554-1.553

Specific Gravity : 2.66 (+.03,-.02)

Citrine, a member of the Quartz mineral family, is a Quartz whose color is probably caused by Iron traces.
Citrine's name is derived from the French Citrine for lemon.  Color ranges from pale yellow, to medium yellow, to medium-dark orange-yellow, to root beer color.  Most Citrine on the market is actually a brownish variety of an  Amethyst that has been heat treated to produce the bright yellow colors and darker stones with reddish tints.  The pale yellow color stones are typically natural untreated stones.  As the color ranges into medium-dark orange-yellow to Root Beer it is called Madeira Citrine.  Citrine is heat sensitive, excessive heat could turn the stone colorless, an abrupt temperature change may fracture the stone.  Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids, ammonium fluoride, and alkalies. Sources for this gemstone are Brazil, Bolivia, and Madagascar.

TREATMENTS - Almost all Citrine on the market is routinely heat treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Citrine jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Citrine Jewelry.

THE BIRTHSTONE for JANUARY

Refractive Index : see type

Specific Gravity : see type

The Latin root word for Garnet is Granatum, meaning pomegranate, thought to resemble the fruit's seeds.
There are several varieties in the Garnet family.  Pyrope (bright red to dark brick-red), Rhodolite (pinkish-red), Almandine (deep violet-red), Spessartite (orange-pink to orange-red with brownish yellow), Spessartine (midway between almondine and spessartite), Hessonite (honey-yellow to yellow-brown), Grossularite (light yellowish-green to strong bluish-green), and Anaradite (honey-yellow=trapazolite, green=demantoid, blackish-red to black=melanite). Garnets are available in all colors except pure Blue.  In recent years there have been new finds and Gem Merchants may use pet names like Orange garnet and Mandarin garnet to describe them, but these are really in the Spessartite variety, just as Tsavorite is in the Grossular variety.  Scroll down to get more specific info on the different varieties of Garnet. All Garnet is heat sensitive, excessive heat could cause fracturing. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids.

TREATMENTS - Garnet is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and usually extremely risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.760 (+.020,-.018)

Specific Gravity : 3.78-3.85

Color Change Garnet is very scarce, with very few stones in the worldwide market. These Garnets are a rare mixture of Pyrope and Spessartite, but also have Chromium and Vanadium, which gives it the color change. They have a wide variability in color behavior. The lesser quality stones can vary in shades of drab brownish colors, whereas the top gem quality stones can be vivid purples and vivid blue-greens in daylight or fluorescent lighting to purplish-Reds and Blood Reds in candle light or incandescent lighting, in the top quality stones, blue hues are very rare. Top Gem Color Change Garnet can be easily confused with top quality Alexandrite, the color shift can be that dramatic. Typically Color Change Garnet stones are faceted and range in sizes between 1 to 10 carats. Some of the identifying characteristics are rutile, pyrite, and apatite crystals visible in the stone. Color Change Garnet is heat sensitive, excessive heat could cause fracturing. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids. Color Change Garnets are found in Sri Lanka, Africa, and Brazil. Expect the extraordinary stones to continue to increase in value, since they a very highly valued Collectors Gemstone.

TREATMENTS - Garnet is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Color Change Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and extremely risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.714-1.742

Specific Gravity : 3.78 (+.09,-.16)

Pyrope (PYE-rope) Garnets are the most common on the market.  They are typically Red with a brownish tint, or Brick Red in color.  Pyrope is sometimes called Cape Ruby, but this is a misnomer,  and sometimes confused with Almondine and Spinel.  Pyrope Garnets are seldom over 2 carats, can be found in faceted as well as cabochon cut stones, they are tough wearing stones, so an excellent choice for jewelry. Pyrope Garnet is heat sensitive, the stone fuses easily before a jewelers torch, and abrupt temperature changes could cause fracturing. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids.

TREATMENTS - Garnet is not treated.
CARE- It is usually safe to clean Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.760 (+.010 -.020)

Specific Gravity : 3.84 (+/-.010)

Rhodolite (ROE-doe-lite) is the name used to describe the lovely pinkish, purplish or lavender Red Garnets which are a mixture of Pyrope and Almandite. This name was first used in the late 1800's to describe the new rhododendron shade of Garnets discovered in North Carolina. Rhodolite is usually a Red stone, ranging from light to dark purplish Red through reddish Purple. Raspberry Rhodolite (trade name) is a rich purplish Red with bright Lavender highlights. Prices are based on the color, size and clarity of the stone. Rhodolite Garnets are not as dark as the common Pyrope Garnets. Rhodolite is heat sensitive, the stone fuses easily before a jewelers torch, and abrupt temperature changes could cause fracturing. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids. Rhodolite garnets are normally African in origin and are bright, transparent Gems. 

TREATMENTS - Garnet is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and extremely risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.888 (+.007, -.033)

Specific Gravity : 3.84 (+/-.03)

Green Demantoid Garnet, in the Andradite (ANN-druh-dite) mineral species belonging to the Garnet group, is one of the rarest Garnets.  Discovered in Russia in 1868, the supply was consumed in jewelry by 1896.  Production now is limited to a few stones a year. Utilized in Art Nouveau jewelry during the turn of the century.  Demantoid is important to Gem aficionados for four reasons: its great rarity, its color, its high dispersion and its distinctive inclusion.  Dispersion, or the breaking of White light into spectral colors, is measured at 0.044 for Diamond and 0.057 for Demantoid.  Demantoid's name means "diamond" in German, an indication of its beautiful luster.  Demantoid deposits of lesser material exist in San Bonito County, California, the Piedmont area of Italy, Iran, Nambia, Korea, the Congo and the Stanley Butts area of Arizona, but because the original locality for demantoid was in Russia’s Ural Mountains, the Russian material remains the standard by which the gem is judged.  While the color of demantoid never equals that of the finest emerald, an emerald-green is the ideal.  The color should be as intense as possible, without being overly dark.  Many stones are in the yellowish-Green range with lesser qualities being brownish Green of grayish Green.  The color of demantoid is believed to be due to chromium.  It should be noted that the fire in a demantoid is best seen in the lighter, less saturated gems. Thus color preference is a matter of individual taste.  Some people will choose an intense body color and less fire, while others prefer a lighter body color and more fire.  Demantoid garnet generally looks best under daylight.  Incandescent light makes it appear slightly more yellowish-green.  Because of its high dispersion, demantoid looks great in the same type of lighting as diamond, i.e., multi-point (as opposed to diffuse) lighting.  Demantoid is relatively clean, thus when buying one you should look for an eye-clean or near-eye-clean stone.  Demantoids exhibit a unique Byssolite inclusion called a "horse tail."  This inclusion is formed by Asbestos, needle-like fibers which radiate from a central crystal, usually Chrysolite, in a curving style similar to a horse's tail.  Gem cutters often fashion a Demantoid to better show the inclusion since this is a definite characteristic of a Demantoid.  Generally you will only find  round brilliant, oval, or cushion cuts.  Typically crystals are small and not plentiful, generally under 1 Carat.  Demantoid is rare in faceted stones above 2 carats.  Fine demantoids above 5 carats can be considered world-class pieces.  Some demantoid garnet is heat-treated to improve the color, and the resulting stones are stable under normal wearing conditions.  Demantoid is among the most expensive of all garnets, but like all gem materials, low-quality (i.e., non-gem quality) pieces may be available for a few dollars per carat.  Prices for demantoid vary greatly according to size and quality, but gem quality stones with no enhancement may reach as much as $10,000 per carat. Demantoid is heat sensitive, an abrupt temperature changes could cause fracturing. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids. Demantoid Garnet is a valued Collectors Gemstone.

TREATMENTS - Garnet is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Demantoid Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and extremely risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Demantoid.

Refractive Index : 1.740 (+.020 -.010)

Specific Gravity : 3.61 (+.12, -.04)

The Grossularite (GRAHSS-you-lar-ite) Garnet mineral species belonging to the Garnet group incorporates many colors: light to dark Yellow to reddish Orange (Hessonite), light to dark Green (Tsavorite), Colorless (rare); and occasionally translucent to opaque Pink.  Of course there are many variations and shades of these colors.  Pure Grossularite is Colorless.  Grossularite Garnets can have a particular inclusion which is an identifying characteristic. A treacle or swirly appearance created by tiny included crystals, generally Diopside crystals, is common to Grossularite Garnets. Grossularite Garnet is heat sensitive, abrupt temperature changes could cause fracturing. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids. Sources for Grossularite Garnet are Sri Lanka, Canada, U.S., Mexico, Africa, Australia and Brazil. Grossular Garnet is a valued Collectors Gemstone.

TREATMENTS - Garnet is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Grossularite Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and extremely risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.740 (+.020 -.010)

Specific Gravity : 3.61 (+.12, -.04)

Hessonite is part of the Grossularite Garnet species.  Hessonite Garnets are available in light to dark Yellow to reddish Orange. The Red/Orange Hessonite is often referred to as "Cinnamon" stone because it matches the color of oil of cinnamon produced in Ceylon.  Our source for Hessonite Garnet is Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known for producing the finest variety of Garnet.  Other sources are Canada, Mexico, U.S., Brazil and Africa.  Hessonite Garnet is a valued Collectors Gemstone.

TREATMENTS - Hessonite Garnet is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Grossularite Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and extremely risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.740 (+.020 -.010)

Specific Gravity : 3.61 (+.12, -.04)

Tsavorite is the intense Green Grossular Garnet named after the Tsavo National Park in Kenya.  Tsavorite was first discovered in 1967 and was named by Henry B. Platt, vice-president of Tiffany & Co., after the site of that find. Tsavorite is often compared to other Green Gemstones, and it is easily a match for the better known Emerald. Actually Tsavorite is superior to the Emerald in many ways, and it is a rarer stone. Tsavorite is a tougher, more durable stone with a higher luster, resulting in a higher polish.  It also has a higher refractive index, 1.74 for Tsavorite compared to 1.57 for Emerald, so Tsavorite is the brighter stone for setting with Diamonds since the Tsavorite will display more sparkle and fire. Shades vary from pure Green to yellowish Green. Like Emerald, most Tsavorite can have some visible inclusions.  Most Tsavorite production is under 1 Carat.  A 2 Carat Tsavorite is considered large! Tsavorite a is a valued Collectors Gemstone due to its rarity and its beauty.

TREATMENTS - Tsavorite Garnet is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Grossularite Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and extremely risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

One of the latest discoveries in the Garnet family. From Mali, Africa, these attractive Garnets are a rare mixture of Andradite and Grossular and only came into the market in late 1994.  Mali Garnets are much rarer than Tsavorite Garnets.  All are a bright, uniform light yellowish Green. These are extraordinary stones that are expected to increase in value.

TREATMENTS - Mali Garnet is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Mali Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and extremely risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.810 (+.004, -.020)

Specific Gravity : 4.15 (+.05, -.03)

This "Sunkist" Orange Garnet is part of the Spessartite Garnet species, but it a little softer than the other Garnets with a hardness of 6 to 6-1/2. The Mandarin Garnet is a newcomer to the Gem Market.  Discovered in 1992 in Namibia near the north border with Angola, Mandarin Garnet is mined in wasteland conditions. Temperatures have been known to reach 140°F in a desert area populated by Angolan soldiers who have fled their homeland. Mandarin is uniform, and has vivid color of pure Orange that sets it apart from other Orange stones. Mandarin Garnet is heat sensitive, excessive heat could cause fracturing. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids. Mandarin Garnets take a good polish, so this is a beautiful Gem for mounting.  Potential for this Gem is good because jewelry demand will grow due to its vivid color and brightness.

TREATMENTS - Mandarin Garnet is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Mandarin Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and extremely risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.760 (+.020,-.018)

Specific Gravity : 3.78-3.85

Malaia (muh-LYE-uh) Garnet (also called Malaya Garnet) are a rare mixture of Pyrope and Spessartite Garnet family.  These Garnets were discovered in the Umba Valley in Tanzania, Africa. This Garnet has an unusual history. In the late 1970's, East African miners included this Orange and reddish Orange stone in parcels of Rhodolite Garnet being offered to Japanese dealers. The "off" colors, summarily rejected for their obviously different color, were contemptuously called Malaya by the miners. This Swahili word means outcast or prostitute. German and American dealers saw the beauty of this "outcast" Gem and began marketing Malaya Garnet in 1979. They generally range in color from a slightly pinkish-orange or reddish-orange or yellowish-orange, and tones from light to dark. These extraordinary stones are expected to increase in value. Top color Malaya Garnets are pure orange or reddish-orange, sometimes with a touch of peach. These vibrant stones are beautiful especially when mounted in Jewelry. Malaia Garnet is heat sensitive, excessive heat could cause fracturing. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids. Malaia Garnets are very limited on the market.

TREATMENTS - Malaia Garnet is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Malaia Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and extremely risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.542-1.551 (+.045,-.011)

Specific Gravity : 2.61 (+/-.05)

Iolite is also called Dichroite, referring to it's strong pleochroism, and Cordierite by minerologists, but the term Water Sapphire is a misnomer. Iolite varies from violetish Blue through slightly voiletish Blue, and it always has a strong pleochroism. Iolite is heat sensitive, the stone fuses easily before a jewelers torch, abrupt temperature changes could cause fracturing. Chemicals that could attack this gem are acids. This Gems are usually just a few carats in size, so to find anything over 3 carats in a rare find indeed. Iolite is cut to maximize the color and pleochroism. Iolite is often confused with Sapphire and Tanzanite. These vitreous, transparent, faceted stones are found in Sri Lanka, Brazil, India, Tanzania, Burma, Finland, Madagascar, Nambia, and Norway. The most common cut to be found is Oval or Rectangular step cut.

TREATMENTS - Typically Iolite is not treated.
CARE - It is risky to clean Iolite jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and  risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean this gemstone jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.660-1.676 (+/-.005)

Specific Gravity : 3.18 (+/-.03)

Kunzite is in the best known member of the Spodumene (SPOD-you-mene) mineral  species. The actual trade name Kunzite was named after George F. Kunz, the noted Gemologist for Tiffany & Company, in 1902.  This Pink to bluish Purple gem is frequently encountered in very large sizes and in deep cut Gems as a way of maximizing the color. Smaller stones, those under 10 Carats, will usually have lighter color than larger ones. Kunzite is heat sensitive, abrupt temperature changes could cause fracturing. Kunzite can also fade when exposed to strong light for extended periods, so caution should be exercised regarding a lot of exposure to sunlight. Chemicals that could attack this gem are concentrated hydrofluoric acids. These vitreous, transparent, faceted stones are found in Brazil, Afghanistan, Madagascar, and the US.

TREATMENTS - The very nature of Kunzite requires it's color to be enhanced and stabilized by Irradiation followed by Heat treatment.
CARE - It is very risky to clean Kunzite jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and very risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean this gemstone jewelry.

THE ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER

Refractive Index : 1.577-1.583 (+/-.017)

Specific Gravity : 2.72 (+.18,-.05)

Morganite is in the Beryl (BARE-ul) mineral species. The public was just beginning to gain awareness of this soft pink stone named after J.P. Morgan (Morganite) but is now gaining recognition by a new name "Pink Emerald". This reddish Orange through slightly purplish Red gem is truly rare, especially in the larger sizes with good color. In reality, green emerald is not rare, diamond is anything but rare, since everyone in the world has one, regardless of their income level, but Morganite is very rare.  Gem dealers in the know have one tucked away because they've always thought it would be an important gemstone.  Pink Emerald is finally receiving the appreciation and price level it deserves.  Pink Emerald prices are now at around $450 per carat for some of the smaller stones (<3 carats) in lighter colors, and range to upwards of $10,000 per carat for large stones with rich color.  Some dealers see Morganite as easily being $10,000 to $30,000 per carat in the very near future.  Morganite, or Pink Emeralds are following the lead taken in 1990 when  red beryl, or bixbite, was being sold and marketed as Red Emerald.  Red Emerald and Pink Emerald are both beryllium aluminum silicates colored by manganese and chromium, among other things.  These precious gems are extremely desirable and beautiful.  As with most gems, the larger the Pink Emerald the more it's cost per carat, and the more saturated the color, the higher the price of the gemstone. A clean and well cut Pink Emerald (Morganite) with moderate to moderately strong pastel pink color is definitely a winner, a gem you'd be proud to own, but to maintain it properly, make sure you clean it often, following the instructions below. Morganite is not generally heat sensitive, but the pink color could fade if subjected to 100⁰C or higher. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids.  Morganite is one of my personal favorites. This is a valued Collectors Gemstone that will continue to gain popularity and increase in value.

TREATMENTS - Typically Morganite is not treated or enhanced.
CARE - Jewelry featuring Pink Emerald (Morganite) should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Morganite.

The 16th ANNIVERSARY STONE

Refractive Index : 1.654-1.690 (+/-.020)

Specific Gravity : 3.34 (+.14,-.07)

Peridot (PEAR-ih-doe) belongs to the forsterite-fayalite mineral series, which is part of the olivine group. The name is derived from the Greek word peridona, meaning to provide plentifully. Peridot ranges in color from yellowish Green to greenish Yellow.  Because of the way Peridot splits and bends the rays of light passing through it, it has a velvety, "sleepy" appearance and a shining rich glow. The amount of Iron determines the color saturation.
Some of the best Top Gem quality Peridot comes from Pyaung Gaung in Burma’s Mogok region.  Burmese Peridot is usually a rich olive Green and previously was readily available in large gem quality stones.  Sources for these fine stones are quite limited now, and premium prices of $400-$500 per carat can be demanded for fine large gems of top color. 
In the 1990s, in Pakistan’s Suppatt region a new deposit was discovered, and is almost as good as that from Burma. Pakistan Peridot is normally a very nice rich olive Green, and can still be found in larger gem quality stones. Pakistan Peridot prices are higher than Arizona Peridot and a little lower than Burma Peridot.  Premium prices can still be demanded for fine, top gem quality Pakistan Peridot. 
The U.S. has become a major source for Peridot since the world's largest known deposit is on the San Carlos Apache reservation 80 miles west of Phoenix, Arizona, but this material rarely cuts gems above 10 carats. The rough is dug by Native Americans who sell to nearby dealers. The faceted Arizona Peridot is normally bright, yellowish Green with minimal inclusions.  Arizona Peridot is usually modestly priced, typically between $50-$100 per carat.
Peridot is also mined in China, Brazil, Australia and Norway, among other places. The historic deposit of Zabargad Island has not been mined for Peridot in many decades.
Top Quality Large Peridot is an excellent choice to add to your Collection of Gemstones.

TREATMENTS - Typically Peridot is not treated or  enhanced.
CARE - It is very risky to clean Peridot in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and should never be cleaned with a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Peridot, and cleaning the gem often is recommended.  Peridot is heat sensitive, uneven or rapid heat may cause fracturing or complete breakage. Chemicals that could attack this gem are sulfuric acid and hydrofluoric acids. Acid perspiration of some people may attack Peridot over a long period of time.  Jewelers pickling solutions will etch the surface.

Refractive Index : 1.66

Specific Gravity : 2.96

Pehenakite (Phenacite) is a rare beryllium mineral found in the Emerald and Alexandrite mining areas on the Takovaya stream, near Ekaterinburg in the Urals of Russia. It was named in 1833 by Nordenskiold from the Greek for "deceiver" or "liar" because it is so similar in appearance to a diamond. The crystals are sometimes perfectly colorless and transparent, but more often they are greyish or yellowish and only translucent; occasionally they are pale rose-red. In general appearance the mineral is not unlike quartz, for which indeed it has been mistaken. For gem purposes the stone is cut in the brilliant form. The indices of refraction are higher than those of quartz, beryl or topaz; a faceted phenacite is consequently rather brilliant and may sometimes be mistaken for diamond.
Pehenakite is an excellent choice to add to your Collection of Gemstones.

TREATMENTS - Pehenakite is not treated or enhanced.

Refractive Index : 1.43 - 1.47

Specific Gravity : 1.98 - 2.25

OPAL derives from the Sanskrit Upala and the Latin opalus, meaning "precious stone". The oldest Opal mine was at Czerwenitza, now in Czechoslovakia (formerly Hungary). Archival evidence indicates that the mine was worked in the 14th century, but there are indications that it was in operation much earlier, perhaps the source of opal for Rome. Production of semi translucent milky white stones with play of color continued until 1932. Mexican Fire Opal was known to the Aztecs and was introduced in Europe by the Spanish conquistadors early in the 16th century. The characteristic feature of gem Opal  is play of colors, pure colors can be seen in rapid succession when the gem is moved around.
By some standards, Opal is not a mineral because it does not have an extended crystal structure, it is made up of submicroscopic silica spheres bonded together with more silica and water. The lower the initial amount of water, the better are it's properties. Loss of water or change in temperature causes strain that is relieved by cracking, known as crazing.
If the minute spheres in Opal are uniform in size and packed into a regular array, they can scatter light in various colors (by diffraction) determined by the size of the spheres and the opal's orientation. Gem or precious Opal contains many of these organized zones that display diffraction colors, whereas common opal may be colored but does not show a play of colors.
Black Opal was first found in Australia in 1887. Queen Victoria helped popularize Black Opal and White Opal by giving opal jewelry to all of her children. Black and White Opals are currently the most popular gems.
Australia produces 85 percent of the world's Opal. Lightning Ridge, New South Wales, is the primary source of Black Opal. Andamooka, Coober Pedy, and White Cliffs are also very important sources for Black and White Opal, and the Andamooka material is extremely dry when it is mined, so it is unlikely you will ever see it craze.
The play of colors is the most important to the value of an Opal. Fine Opals exhibit bright intense colors. Black Opals are more valued than White. Opal that is too thin to be used in jewelry is made into doublets. This is typically accomplished by taking the thin piece of gem-quality opal, and cementing it to a piece of common opal. If the doublet is covered with a piece of colorless quartz, it becomes a triplet, which is a little more durable than a doublet.
Precious Opal is called Black Opal when the background color is mid-gray, smoke gray, blue, or black, otherwise it is called White Opal. 
The best quality gems fetch very high prices, exceeded only by precious gems like diamond, ruby, alexandrite, emerald, sapphire, etc. 
TREATMENTS - Opal is not treated or enhanced, but it is made into a doublet or triplet as explained above. Glass and Plastic have been used to imitate Opal, but it is very poor looking material. No natural mineral resembles Opal, with the possible exception of Labradorite Feldspar. Synthetic Opal was commercially produced France in 1972, but it's cost is almost the same as natural opal, so why would anyone even remotely consider purchasing the synthetic material.
CARE - It is very risky to clean Opal in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and should never be cleaned with a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Opal Jewelry.  Opal is heat sensitive, uneven or rapid heat may cause crazing.

The 15th and 40th ANNIVERSARY STONE

The 80th ANNIVERSARY STONE

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009, -.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+/-.05)

Ruby is one of the symbols of love.
Ruby is of the mineral species Corundum (ko-RUN-dum). The red color Corundum is Ruby, all other colors are Sapphire. Some gem dealers debate the borderline between Ruby and Pink Sapphire. Historically, the word Ruby referred to shades of red, which technically included pink. But the names ruby and pink sapphire reflect a bit of a difference in value. That’s why, given a choice, a gem dealer would prefer to be able to call a corundum gem Ruby rather than Pink Sapphire. Pink Sapphire is really just Light Red Ruby. The International Colored Gemstone Association passed a resolution that the light shades of the red hue be included in the category Ruby since it was too difficult to legislate where red ended and pink began.  In practice, however, pink shades are now known either as Pinkish Ruby or Pink Sapphire.  Either way, these gems are among the most beautiful of the Corundum family. 
Ruby hues range from strongly purplish-red to orangy-red.  The finest ruby has a slightly purplish-red to pure vibrant red hue.  As the hue becomes more purplish or orangy, the ruby moves down the quality scale into good and commercial ranges. The highest-quality rubies have  vivid saturation.  Medium tone to medium-dark tones are preferred as long as the tone is not so dark that it has a negative effect on brilliance.  At the other extreme, if the tone is too light, the stone is considered pink sapphire, even if saturation levels are high. The most valuable ruby colors are red (R) to slightly purplish red (slpR) with medium (5) to medium-dark (6) tones and strong (5) to vivid (6) saturation.  Typically these are called Cherry Red to Pigeon Blood Red colors.  Chrome imparts the Redness to Ruby.  Here are charts showing the GIA master hue/tone/saturation to determine if corundum is ruby, or if it’s pink, purple, or orange sapphire.  Gem Laboratories that use the GIA scale, grade on the principle that red must be the dominant hue before a stone can be called a ruby, and since identification of the dominant hue is subject to personal perception, in some areas of the world pink sapphires are considered rubies.  Ruby is an excellent choice for jewelry and has a high refraction which produces a bright stone.  Ruby's relative density is high, so a one Carat Ruby will be smaller in millimeter dimensions than a one Carat Diamond.
We typically offer only the finest Burma and Ceylon Rubies.  The Mogok region in Burma, or Myanmar, is the source historically for the finest Rubies.  Ceylon (Sri Lanka), and Mong Hsu Burma Rubies are what we would consider the regions producing the next to the finest grade Ruby, whereas Rubies from Thailand, Africa and Vietnam are typically in the commercial grade of Ruby.  Facet grade Ruby stones are usually cut in the Cushion or Oval shapes.  Native cutters take liberties with the cutting of the pavilions or back side of Rubies to produce larger stones by lifting out dark inclusions, sometimes leaving small cavities (or divets), allowing the culet or bottom point to be a little bit off-center, or by having deeper or shallower than ideal pavilions. Generally these minor points are not noticeable when the stones are mounted, and generally they do not affect the price. Precision cuts required for designer jewelry are cut by strict standards, and consequently the cutting adds to the overall cost of the item. Ruby is not usually heat sensitive, but a jeweler's torch could alter  the color, it may be prudent to ask a Jeweler to remove the stone before applying his torch. There are not very many chemicals that could attack this gem, but if boiled in a diamond cleaning kit the stone can lose it's polish, also Jewelers pickling solutions containing boron will etch the surface.
Ruby was the first mineral to be produced by commercial Gem synthesis, dating back to the 1880's.  It is not uncommon that some have purchased an antique or inherited a family heirloom, and when sending it for an insurance appraisal they learn their "Gem" is not a natural stone, but a synthetic, so just because it's old doesn't mean it's the real thing. We have only genuine natural Ruby, so you will not find synthetic Ruby, among our Gemstones.
Rubies are an excellent choice for investment that are today still more valuable and rare than even the top quality colorless diamonds.  Natural "unheated" top quality Ruby never decreased in true value and remains a highly valued Collectors Gemstone.
COLOR - The most important factor in the value of a RUBY.  The top qualities are as red as you can imagine: a saturated pure spectral hue without any overtones of brown or blue.  After color, the other factors which influence the value of a ruby are clarity, cut, and size.  There are many variables in colored gem pricing because it's not a controlled market like the diamond market is.  One dealer may sell an Ruby of the same quality at one price and another dealer may sell that same Ruby for another price.  There is no price guide as in diamond purchasing.  Whatever a dealer can get for that rarer colored gem is what it's worth and if he wants to hold out for a certain amount of money he just  has to hope he's making the right move.  So you need to be educated enough to know what you're doing!  Since we cut out these middleman dealers, you can expect to get a great quality stone for considerably less.

TREATMENTS - Over 99% of all Ruby on the market is heat treated, to stabilize and/or enhance the color and/or clarity. The typical heat treatment process is a permanent process that does not adversely affect the performance and durability of the gemstone, so there's no need to worry when you see this enhancement disclosed.  The typical heat enhancement procedure performed on Ruby from Sri Lanka (Ceylon) normally refers to the lower temperature wood 'blow' heat method, whereas and the typical heat enhancement procedure performed on Mogok, Myanmar, MongHsu, Thai, Vietnamese, and African Ruby usually refers to the high temperature furnace fired method.  Both heating methods are accepted trade practices, and have been for many generations. The heat treatment process is permanent and does not adversely affect the performance, and durability of the gem, but in recent years demand for natural non-heated non-treated top quality Ruby has caused these gems to command a somewhat higher premium, depending on the gem. We take pride in finding and featuring many of these non-heated natural Rubies.
CAVEAT EMPTOR - A new type heat enhancement was introduced recently, called 'bulk diffusion', which means the gem is subjected to the high temperature furnace fired method above 1900^o C, and also under high pressure, then titanium oxide or another coloring agent is added to the mix to alter and/or change the color of the gemstone. AGTA and GIA gem labs, after examination of this 'bulk diffused' heat treatment process reveals that the color does not go all the way through the gem, but is only in the outer layer, so if the stone is ever scratched or recut the outside color layer would be removed and the original color would then be visible under the outer layer of the gem. These 'bulk diffusion' factories are usually at locations in Thailand, and since Asian gem suppliers (and there are many online now) are not subject to the same disclosure laws as we are here in the US, these enhancement processes are rarely disclosed to the buyer, so buyers please beware. For example, you may see a premium Burma Ruby advertised on one of those websites for what appears to be pennies on the dollar. You can rest assured this is most likely a diffused stone altered by one of the Asian factories. Some of these gem suppliers even go to great lengths to try to convince the public that there is no difference in the value of their diffused gems, and the value of a natural non-treated gem, but any experienced jeweler will verify that a statement like that is totally untrue.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Ruby in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we still recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Ruby jewelry.

The 15th and 40th ANNIVERSARY STONE

The 80th ANNIVERSARY STONE

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009, -.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for APRIL (White)

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER (Pink)

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER (Yellow)

The 5th and 45th ANNIVERSARY STONE

The 70th ANNIVERSARY JUBILEE STONE

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

Sapphire and Ruby comprise more than half of all Gemstones sold worldwide.  Sapphire's popularity is not based on color alone.  Its hardness of 9 places it next to Diamond (10), making it an excellent choice for jewelry worn daily.  It is frequently featured in engagement rings.  Most people relate Sapphire to the color Blue.  Sapphire is a form of Corundum (ko-RUN-dum), readily available in an array of other colors: Pink, Golden, Green, peachy Orange, Purple and Colorless.  These alternate colors are called 'Fancy Sapphire', or simply variations of the standard hues.  Color change Sapphires are those which have two colors which are distinct when the light source is changed from fluorescent to incandescent.  Generally, the more clear and vivid the color, the more valuable the fancy sapphire.  If the color is in the pastel range, the clarity should be good: because in lighter tones any inclusions are more noticeable. The trade usually recognizes gemstones with fewer visible inclusions to be more valuable than gems with visible inclusions.  In a lighter colored gemstone, the cut is also more important: it should reflect light back evenly across the face of the stone, making it lively and brilliant.  With darker more intense colors, the cut isn't as critical because the color creates its own impact. Sapphire is not usually heat sensitive, but a jeweler's torch could alter the color, it may be prudent to ask a Jeweler to remove the stone before applying his torch. There are not very many chemicals that could attack this gem, but if boiled in a diamond cleaning kit the stone can lose it's polish, also Jewelers pickling solutions containing borax will etch the surface.
Ceylon (Sri Lanka) positively produces the finest all-round Sapphires in the world today.  The very name commands a premium, and Ceylon Gems have constantly increased in price.  We have always been on top of the Gem market in Ceylon and stay up with current prices and new discoveries.  It is a very difficult market due to political unrest. It IS dangerous to go there, and it's more dangerous to go outside the capital city into the countryside where the stones are hand dug from the pits.  We constantly buy fine Ceylon Sapphires when the price is "right."  To be "right" we have the connections to know who needs quick and ready cash.  Every stone is negotiated differently, thereby affecting the price per carat.  We work hard to bring these highly valued Gemstones to you at very very affordable prices.  Sapphire of lesser quality comes out of Australia, Thailand, Colombia, Kampuchea (Cambodia), Kenya and Tanzania (Africa), and Montana (USA), and we do not usually offer these stones.

TREATMENTS - Almost all (99%) Sapphire on the market is routinely treated with 'heat' to enhance and stabilize the color.  The typical heat treatment process is a permanent process and it does not normally adversely affect the performance, and durability of the gem, but in recent years demand for natural non-heated non-treated top quality Sapphire has caused these gems to command a somewhat higher premium, depending on the gem.  When we disclose a gem as enhanced with 'heat', we are typically referring to the heat enhancement procedure performed in Sri Lanka right near the mines, using the lower temperature wood heat method.  This 'blow' heat method typically is used on very very good quality Ceylon gems, only to slightly enhance the color and/or to stabilize the color from fading in sunlight.  There's no need to worry when you see this enhancement disclosed.  Almost all Ceylon Padparadscha Sapphire and virtually all Ceylon Orange Sapphire on the market was subjected to 'blow' heat.  This 'blow' heating method has been an accepted trade practice for many many generations.  There are other types of heat enhancement procedures, however, one of which is a high temperature furnace fired method.  This 'furnace' process is typically performed on Sapphire of a much lesser quality.  The goal is to seriously enhance or alter the color and/or clarity of the stone.  Most of these gemstones are highly heated, almost to the melting point of the gem, so it is  'cooked' over and over until the gem dealers feel it is a more desirable color and will fetch a better price in the market.  We normally do not offer gemstones that have been highly heated. 
CAVEAT EMPTOR - A new type heat enhancement was introduced recently, called 'bulk diffusion', which means the gem is subjected to the high temperature furnace fired method above 1900^o C, and also under high pressure, then a coloring agent is added to the mix to alter and/or change the color of the gemstone. AGTA and GIA gem labs, after examination of this 'bulk diffused' heat treatment process reveals that the color does not go all the way through the gem, but is only in the outer layer, so if the stone is ever scratched or recut the outside color layer would be removed and the original color would then be visible under the outer layer of the gem. These 'bulk diffusion' factories are usually at locations in Thailand, and since Asian gem suppliers (and there are many online now) are not subject to the same disclosure laws as we are here in the US, these enhancement processes are rarely disclosed to the buyer, so buyers please beware. For example, you may see a premium Ceylon Sapphire advertised on one of those websites for what appears to be pennies on the dollar. You can rest assured this is most likely a diffused stone altered by one of the Asian factories. Some of these gem suppliers even go to great lengths to try to convince the public that there is no difference in the value of their diffused gems, and the value of a natural non-treated gem, but any experienced jeweler will verify that a statement like that is totally untrue. We specialize in obtaining top quality Ceylon Sapphires that are natural "non-treated" gems, not heated or chemically treated in any way (the exception is Padparadscha, Golden, Orange, and some of the darker shades of Blue Sapphire, which as stated in treatments above are typically 'blow' heat enhanced to stabilize the color.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Sapphire jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

Although everyone has heard of the fabled Burmese Kashmir Sapphire, few have ever seen one.  We constantly see appraisals that refer to Kashmir Sapphire (or Cashmere Sapphire), but it is usually referring to a Top Gem Ceylon Sapphire from Sri Lanka. The term Kashmir is widely regarded to mean the finest quality Blue Sapphire with a velvety, slightly violetish blue, highly saturated in medium to medium dark tone, with sleepy transparency. Once in a great while we are able to acquire one from Burma, but since the mine has been depleted and these highly prized stones are old stones that are simply brought back onto the market, they don't last long. Authentic Kashmir Sapphires and the Kashmir color Sapphires carry a particularly high cost per carat and are very highly valued Collectors Gemstones.
There are an array of color grades, and prices, and sometimes it's difficult to know what quality of color to expect in stones at various prices.
The Blue Sapphire color next on the popularity scale is Cornflower Blue.  The Cornflower Blue or Medium Blue color shades vary but all usually allow more light into the stone for a brighter appearance, so these stones are usually cut in the Cushion or Oval shape to make it as brilliant as possible.  Price per carat reflects the size, evenness of the color, the clarity and the brightness of the stone.
We prefer to use the GIA Colored Stone Grading System, this is an exceptionally good method for noting the quality of color stones. In commercial grade Blue Sapphire you can expect to see the hue range from violet (V) to a very strongly greenish blue (vstgB), and tones will range between 2 and through 8, but less of a saturation range. Saturation in the commercial grade is usually from 1 to 3. Gem Quality Blue Sapphire usually narrow in the range of hues. The hues usually range from violet (V) to a very slightly greenish blue (vslgB), and their ranges of tone can be somewhere between 3 and 7, but optimum choice is between 4 to 6. Saturation in the Gem Quality grade can be from 3 through 5, but again the optimum is 4 to 5.  In Top Gem Quality Blue Sapphire the hues can range from a bluish-violet, or violetish-blue, or pure blue (bV, vB, or B). Tone should be between 5 and 7, and saturation should be 5 or 6. The examples in the diagram are bV 5/5 to 7/5, vB 5/5 to 7/5, and B 5/5 to 7/5, and B 6/6.

TREATMENTS - (see above).
CAVEAT EMPTOR - (see above).
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Sapphire jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER (Pink)

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER (Yellow)

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for AUGUST

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

The 22nd ANNIVERSARY STONE

Refractive Index : 1.718 (+.017,-.008)

Specific Gravity : 3.60 (+.10,-.03)

Spinel (spin-NEL) is a genuine Gemstones with a long history. The availability of Red, Pink, Blue, Purple and Orange Spinel and all of their accompanying shades has created confusion between natural Spinel and other Gems for those unfamiliar with this natural stone.
Spinel is a mineral group composed of Magnesium Aluminates. The addition of Chromium produces Pink or Red Spinel. Iron or Titanium additions produce Lavender or Blue Spinel. Spinel takes a brilliant polish, so it is an excellent choice for jewelry. Generally Spinel crystals are quite clear and clean of flaws. Spinel received its name from either the Greek spina meaning "little thorn" or from the Greek spinther meaning "spark" in allusion to its color. Spinel is not quite as hard as Corundum (Sapphire & Ruby), but harder than Beryl (Emerald), so it is a fine candidate for Jewelry. Spinel is heat sensitive, excessive heat could fade the color in light stones. Many of the crown jewels thought to be fine Ruby are in reality Red Spinel. Our sources for Spinel is Mogok, Burma and Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known also for producing the finest variety of Sapphire, Garnet, Tourmaline, Taaffeite, and Ruby. Other sources are Thailand, Afghanistan and Russia.  Burma Red Spinel is the most sought after, and getting very scarce in stones over 2 carats in size, but essentially all colors of Spinel are rare and highly valued Collectors Gemstones.

TREATMENTS - Typically Spinel is not treated or enhanced.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Spinel in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and usually safe to use a steamer, and always safe to use Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush to clean your Spinel Jewelry.

Refractive Index : 1.718 (+.017,-.008)

Specific Gravity : 3.60 (+.10,-.03)

Top Quality Blue Spinel can rival the color of Blue Sapphire, or they are a vibrant cobalt Blue. Other shades include grayish Blue or slightly greenish Blue. Our stones are transparent, faceted Gems with no eye visible inclusions.  All are nicely cut, ready for your jewelry or collection.

TREATMENTS - Typically Spinel is not treated or enhanced.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Spinel in an UltraSonic Cleaner, and usually safe to use a steamer, and always safe to use Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush to clean your Spinel Jewelry.